Textile ArtsJapanese19th century

Long-Sleeved Outer Robe (Uchikake) with Decoration of Landscape, Waves, and Peonies

19th century

Description

A white silk crepe (chirimen) was dyed to a dark gray color to create the ground for this long-sleeved outer robe with "twilight dying" (akebono-zome) designs. Such robes are typically predominantly dark in color (hence the twilight description) and additional colors appear in gradual shades, usually at the lower extremes of robe skirts and sleeves. In this robe, scenes of a hilly, rustic village beside a body of water appear at the sleeve ends and above the hemline. Shades of light gray, blue, and green make up the landscape elements, while peonies, butterflies, and other motifs appear in pinks, purples, and browns. The "yuzenzome" paste-resist technique was utilized to keep decorative areas reserved in white, and colors were hand-painted. Some peonies were embroidered onto the fabric using polychrome silk threads; outlines of selected motifs were embroidered utilizing gold threads. Two floral family crests (mon) are embroidered in white thread on the front shoulders of the robe; three crests are embroidered on the back (two on the shoulders, one below the neck). The lower hem is padded.

Classification

Textile Arts

Medium

Resist-dyed gray silk crepe (chirimen) with "twilight dying" (akebono-zome) designs utilizing paste-resist (yuzenzome) and hand-painted techniques; selected motifs embroidered with polychrome silk and gold threads

Culture

Japanese

Period

Edo period, Late to early Meiji period

Century

19th century

Division

Asian and Mediterranean Art

Department

Department of Asian Art

Dimensions

H. 159.9 x W. 124.9 cm (62 15/16 x 49 3/16 in.)

Provenance

Louis V. Ledoux Collection, New York (1921-1948), by descent; to his son L. Pierre Ledoux, New York (1948-2001), by inheritance; to his widow Joan F. Ledoux, New York, (2001-2013), gift; to Harvard Art Museums, 2013. Footnotes: 1. Louis V. Ledoux (1880-1948) 2. L. Pierre Ledoux (1912-2001) 3. On long term loan to Harvard Art Museums from 1985 to 2013.