Late 4th-early 5th century
This fragment’s size and double band design suggests that it originally ornamented the sleeve cuff of a tunic. The bands are figured as inhabited grape vine scrolls; each roundel of the vine scrolls holds a pair of running animals, including rabbits, goats, gazelles, and felines. The rightmost pairs face opposite to the rest, interrupting the flow of movement from left to right and introducing a chaotic energy to the composition. Red yarn details emphasize the animals’ panting tongues. The bands are tapestry woven, however the fabric between, above, and below the bands is plain/tabby woven. Supplementary weft wrapping in a light colored thread creates details on the roundels, animals, and grape leaves.
sight: 19.7 × 30.2 cm (7 3/4 × 11 7/8 in.)
From the collection of Lilian and Benjamin Hertzberg.
Compound weave silk with supplementary polychrome wefts
19th centuryJapaneseTextile fibers
17th centuryFlemishWool
19th centuryCentral AsianSilk
18th centuryRussianHandwoven maguey fiber
20th centuryAmericanWool
19th centuryOttomanBook of swatches mounted on paper (56 sheets)
19th-20th centuryJapanese