early 18th century
This magnificent robe decorated with irises was made as a costume for young female roles in the aristocratic all-male Nō theater. Silk threads resist-dyed in alternating colors of blue, lavender, and orange were woven into a fabric that created color blocks in a large checkerboard-like fashion. Supplementary wefts of gold were interwoven into the main fabric to create a complex basketweave pattern. Multicolored silk threads were utlized to embroider images of iris blossoms and leaves over the color-block and basketweave patterns.
H. 148.7 x W. 143.8 cm (58 9/16 x 56 5/8 in.)
Marquis Ikeda Collection. [Yamanaka and Company, Kyoto, by 1934],sold; to Louis V. Ledoux Collection, New York (1934-1948), by descent; to his son L. Pierre Ledoux, New York (1948-2001), by inheritance; to his widow Joan F. Ledoux, New York, (2001-2013), gift; to Harvard Art Museums, 2013. Footnotes: 1. Louis V. Ledoux (1880-1948) 2. L. Pierre Ledoux (1912-2001) 3. On long term loan to Harvard Art Museums from 1985 to 2013.
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18th centuryJapaneseResist-dyed silk damask ground detailed with stenciling and painting and with decoration embroidered in dyed silk threads and gilt-paper-wrapped threads
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18th-19th centuryJapanese