Textile ArtsChinese19th century

Manchu Woman's Formal Domestic Robe with Roundels of Cranes, Butterflies and Plum Blossom Branches

19th century

Description

On a bright yellow ground of satin, roundels of cranes encircled by butterflies and blossoming plum branches in slit tapestry weave (“kesi”) are arranged evenly on the front and back panels, as well as shoulders of the garment. Such auspicious symbols signify wishes for longevity and affluence. Colorful “lishui” striped (literally “upright water”) hem, together with surge of waves breaking against mountain rocks above the hem, creates a cosmic landscape, a pattern derived from 16th century Ming imperial robe designs, symbolizing the continual rule of the imperial court over a land of prosperity and harmony. The altered horse-hoof shaped cuffs (“matixiu”), a cuff style originated from the nomadic Manchu culture, are decorated with roundels of white cranes surrounded by butterflies and blossoming plum branches in slit tapestry weave (“kesi”) in vivid shades of red, pink, yellow, blue, green, purple, and beige against a dark blue ground. A band of the same fabric pattern runs along the elbow and the collar, with a narrow band of golden brocade of flowers and vines along the edges. These ornamental parts on dark blue ground appear to be later repairs to the original. Five loop-and-toggle fastenings holds in place the inner and outer front flaps of the garment (three sets under the right arm, and two on collar). Robes with decorations and ornaments like this one could have been worn on occasions such as birthday celebrations, representing formal domestic attire for Manchu women in the 19th to early 20th century.

Classification

Textile Arts

Medium

Satin with designs in slit tapestry weave (“kesi”)

Culture

Chinese

Period

Qing dynasty, 1644-1911

Century

19th century

Division

Asian and Mediterranean Art

Department

Department of Asian Art

Dimensions

max. H. 138.4 x W. 200.7 cm (54 1/2 x 79 in.)

Provenance

[Peking, by 1921], sold; to Louis V. Ledoux Collection, New York (1921-1948), by descent; to his son L. Pierre Ledoux, New York (1948-2001), by inheritance; to his widow Joan F. Ledoux, New York, (2001-2013), gift; to Harvard Art Museums, 2013. Footnotes: 1. Louis V. Ledoux (1880-1948) 2. L. Pierre Ledoux (1912-2001) 3. On long term loan to Harvard Art Museums from 1985 to 2013.